Seville is worth a one week stay, or even longer, as it has one of the largest and best preserved historic city centres in Spain. However, we do know that your holidays are short, and for many travellers Seville is just one stop on a tour throughout Andalucía or other parts of Spain... so here is our quick guide and itinerary to help you get the best out of a two-night stay in Seville.
Peter Tatford
On your first day in a strange city it’s a good idea to get a sense of direction. In Seville the main axis runs from the geographical centre of the city at Plaza del Duque and La Campana, along the two parallel main shopping streets of Tetuan and Sierpes to the Plaza Nueva (the big open square with the statue in the middle) and Plaza San Francisco (the much older cobbled square on the other side of the Town Hall), and on to the Avenida de la Constitución, the modern-looking street with the trams that runs to the Puerta de Jerez, passing in front of the Cathedral.
Main pedestrian and shopping area
The El Corte Inglés shopping center at Plaza del Duque is considered to be in the geographical centre of Seville. We recommend its well appointed supermarket in the basement for stocking your apartment kitchen on arrival. Here starts the main shopping and pedestrian area of Seville, along calle Sierpes and Velazquez/ Tetuán, towards the City Hall.
Address: Plaza del Duque de la Victoria, 8
Supermarket opens 10am - 10pm, Mon-Sat
www.exploreseville.com/shopping.htm
City Hall (Ayuntamiento)
After a 5 min stroll through one of the pedestrian streets you arrive at Seville's city hall, which is located in-between two squares. At the back of the building is the smaller Plaza de San Francisco, and, towards the main entrance, the Plaza Nueva. At the city hall you can also find a tourist information office, where you can get a free city map, which is vital to find your way to the coming stops of our itinerary...
Address: Plaza Nueva, 1
www.sevilla.org
Cathedral
Another 5 min in the same direction, and you reach the Cathedral. The statistics are all about size – the largest gothic cathedral and third largest church in the world, with the largest gold altarpiece – but none of that tells you about the sense of space that you get inside, or the artistic treasures it’s home to. Look out for the Tomb of Christopher Columbus, and for something more whimsical, the crocodile. Climbing the city’s most famous icon, the Giralda tower is a must (it has ramps rather than stairs, so it’s not too arduous), both so you can say you’ve done it, and also for the views, which are the best in Seville. The tower and the Patio de los Naranjos are all that remain of the Grand Mosque that occupied the site until the beginning of the 15th century, when work began on the new Cathedral.
Address: Plaza del Triunfo (Puerta del Principe)
Opening hours: Mon - Sat 11:00-17:00 | Sun and public holidays 14:30-18:30 | July - August Mon - Sat 09.30-16:30 | Sun and public holidays 14:30-18:30
Price (including Giralda): Full price 8 € | Reduced 3 € | Free for residents of Seville, children under 15 accompanied by an adult, the disabled accompanied by one person & the unemployed
Phone: +34 902 099 692
Official website: Catedral de Sevilla
Behind the Cathedral is the Plaza Virgen de los Reyes, one of the most beautiful squares in the city, encircled by the Cathedral, the Archbishop’s Palace, the Church of Santa Marta, and with its gargoyle fountain and farola (literally street lamp, but it loses something in the translation) in the centre. Opposite the cathedral is Mateos Gago street, until a hundred years ago the only way into the Barrio Santa Cruz.
A great way to get your bearings, experience a proper Sevillian “tapeo” (tapas crawl) and try some of the best food Seville has to offer, is to take one of Shawn Hennessey’s excellent Sevilla Tapas Tours. You’ll eat like a local and learn a lot about Spanish food and wine.
Horno San Buenaventura
Start the day with tostadas and coffee in Seville at the Horno San Buenaventura. Sit at the bar with the locals where the service is faster and cheaper, and order your coffee “en vaso” (in a glass). You can also choose something from the pastry counter to keep you going through the morning.
Address: Avda. de la Constitución, 16
www.hornosanbuenaventura.es
Alcázar Royal Palace
From here, turn right onto Constitución and go round the Cathedral into the Plaza Triunfo and the Alcázar Royal Palace and Gardens (Reales Alcázares). This is undoubtedly the city’s number one tourist attraction, and it’s not hard to see why. The impressive outer walls date from the Moorish period, and the main palace from the mid-14th century, about a hundred years after the Christian reconquest. It was mostly built by Peter the Cruel, and is one of the best examples of mudejar-style architecture in Spain, full of fabulous tiled courtyards and amazing ceilings. In the gardens look for the Baths of Doña María Padilla, the Pool of Mercury, and the Wall of the Grotesques. You can expect to spend at least two hours here, and it’s worth investing in an audio guide, which has lots of information without being overwhelming.
Address: Patio de Banderas s/n
Opening hours: October-March Mon - Sun 09:30-17:00 | April - September Mon - Sun 09.30-19:00 | Closed 1st and 6th January, Good Friday and Christmas
Price: Full price 8.50 € | Reduced 2 € | Free for residents of Seville, children under 16 & the disabled
Phone: +34 954 502 323
Official website: Real Alcázar de Sevilla
Reviews: Tripadvisor
When you exit the palace you will find yourself in the orange-tree-lined Patio de Banderas. From here turn right under the arches and take in the picturesque atmosphere of the old Jewish quarter of the city, with its narrow streets, small squares, orange trees and balconies. This is a great area to just wander round, but look out for the Plazas Doña Elvira and Los Refinadores and Calle Agua (Water Street) beside the old wall in particular, and take a detour into the Murillo Gardens, just because they’re there.
Vineria San Telmo
At the northern end of the Murillo Gardens you’ll find one of my favourite tapas bars in the Paseo Catalina de Ribera. Vineria San Telmo has a special buzzy atmosphere, a terrific eclectic menu and attentive international staff.
Paseo Catalina de Ribera, 4
www.vineriasantelmo.com
Plaza de España / Maria Luisa Park
From the Vineria it’s a short walk to the Plaza de España in Maria Luisa Park. Designed by Seville’s most famous architect, Aníbal González for the 1929 Ibero-American exhibition, it’s an ornately columned semi-circular building with representations of all the provinces of Spain, around a grand plaza with a central fountain, and a boating lake with bridges, all with a great profusion of colourful ceramic decoration.
See our video and read more information on the Maria Luisa Park.
Opening Hours: Daily 08:00 - 20:00 | July -Aug 08:00- 24:00
Price: Free
Depending on the time and the weather an alternative route back is across the park to the river, and along the river bank to the Palacio San Telmo (unfortunately not open to the public), and the Torre del Oro, another of the city’s icons.
Museo de Baile Flamenco
No holiday in Seville would be complete without taking in a flamenco show. A particularly good one can be enjoyed at the Flamenco Museum. Unlike at the other venues, this one is early enough in the evening that you can comfortably see the show and have dinner afterwards.
C/ Manuel Rojas Marcos, 3
Opening hours: Nov - March 9:00-18:00 | April - Oct 09:00-19:00 (museum) | Flamenco show 19:00 daily
Price: Museum €10, students €8, children €6, groups €8 per person | Flamenco show €20 Combined ticket to Museum and show €24
Phone: +34 954 340 311
Official website: www.flamencomuseum.com
La Azotea
Splash out for some gourmet tapas at La Azotea, where you are guaranteed to have some of the most innovative and tasty tapas in town. They don’t take bookings so be sure to get there at opening time (20:00) to get a table.
C/ Jesús del Gran Poder, 31
www.laazoteasevilla.es
Doña Maria
After dinner, it’s time to finish your day with a touch of style. These days there are plenty of rooftop bars where you can enjoy a late cocktail or two while taking in lovely views but one of my favourites is in the Hotel Doña Maria in Calle Remondo, just off the Plaza Virgen de los Reyes behind the Cathedral.
C/ Don Remondo, 19
www.hdmaria.com
Time to try some churros and chocolate (or with coffee if you prefer). One very traditional place near your final "must see" is the Centurion Bar in the Plaza Encarnación just behind the market. After breakfast it's time for something completely different – and this place would be completely different anywhere in the world:
Metropol Parasol
The Metropol Parasol, or “Las Setas” (mushrooms), as they are known locally for reasons that will be obvious when you see them, have only been open for a couple of years, but have already helped breathe new life into this neighbourhood of Seville. Not only do these huge waffle-like creations make up the largest wooden structure in the world, they also serve practical functions. At ground level they house the Encarnación Market, worth visiting for the colourful and occasionally exotic displays of fresh fruit and veg, fish and seafood, and meats and charcuterie. Below ground level is the Antiquarium, a well thought out museum of mainly Roman ruins, including some well-preserved mosaics. Take the lift from the ground floor level to the top where there are great views of the city from the walkways, and enjoy a bite at Gastrosol where you can find anything from fried fish and charcuterie to gourmet burgers and designer tapas.
Plaza de la Encarnación
Opening hours: (Miradores) Sun-Thur 10:30-00:00 | Fri-Sat 10.30:01.00
Price: 1.30 € | Free to Seville residents, children under 12 and the disabled with companion
(Antiquarium) Tues-Sat 10:00-20:00 / Sun 10:00-14:00 | closed on Mondays
Price: 2.00 € | Free to Seville residents, students, pensioners and the disabled
Official website: Metropol Sevilla
If you're not leaving until late in the afternoon or evening, here are some additional suggestions for things to do.
Fine Arts Museum
If you're interested in art, a visit to the Bellas Artes (Fine Arts) museum is in order. This is one of the most important collections in the country, with works by Velazquez, Murillo, Valdes Leal, and other great painters.
Address: Plaza del Museo, 9
Opening hours: closed Mon | Tue 14:30-20:30 | Wed-Sat 9:00-20:30 | Sun and public holidays 9:00-14:30
Price: Free entrance for residents of EU member states | Other countries: €1.50
Phone: +34 954 786 482
Official web: Museo Bellas Artes
Triana
Cross the river to see the Castillo San Jorge, the former headquarters of the Inquisition and now a museum of tolerance, and to do a little souvenir shopping in the ceramics district. Finish with a coffee or a beer in one of the many bars next to the river along Calle Betis with a view of Seville.
Castillo de San Jorge
Address: Plaza del Altozano s/n
Opening hours Mon-Fri 11.00-18.30 Sat-Sun 10.00-15.00
Price: free
Casa de Pilatos
Alternatively, Casa Pilatos is one of the most famous palaces in Seville, and includes two unusual gardens. You may also recognise it as the set for several films, including Knight and Day and Lawrence of Arabia.
Plaza de Pilatos, 1
Opening hours Mon-Sun 9:00am -6:00pm (7.00pm April-October)
Admission fee 6 Euros (Ground Floor only) or 8 euros (Complete) Free Tuesday mornings
Credits:
Most of the content of this page is by former Londoner and long-term Seville resident Peter Tatford, aka Seville Concierge. He offers customised full and half day outings in Seville, and also does shorter walking tours in the city and day trips to nearby places.
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